Add all missing English translations of MD documents
... using Google translate + manual MD syntax fixing
This commit is contained in:
hoijui
parent
bf513928c6
commit
9269c04e5c
13
README.md
13
README.md
@ -6,13 +6,18 @@ Crkbd stands for Corne Keyboard.
|
||||
|
||||
## Lineup
|
||||
|
||||
- corne-classic([JP](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
|
||||
- corne-classic
|
||||
([JP](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
|
||||
Corne for Cherry MX switches
|
||||
- corne-cherry([JP](corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_jp.md)) ([tilting, JP](corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_jp.md)):
|
||||
- corne-cherry
|
||||
([JP](corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md))
|
||||
([tilting, JP](corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_jp.md)/[tilting, EN](corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md)):
|
||||
Hotswappable Corne for Cherry MX switches by kailh PCB sockets.
|
||||
- corne-chocolate([JP](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
|
||||
- corne-chocolate
|
||||
([JP](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
|
||||
Hotswappable Corne for Chocolate switches using Kailh PCB hot-swap sockets.
|
||||
- corne-light([JP](corne-light/doc/buildguide_jp.md)):
|
||||
- corne-light
|
||||
([JP](corne-light/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-light/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
|
||||
Light-weight Corne (Easy build with a simple PCB).
|
||||
|
||||
## Photos
|
||||
|
||||
8
corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
8
corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the Corne Cherry build guide.
|
||||
The build guide differs depending on the version,
|
||||
so please choose your own from the following.
|
||||
|
||||
- [v2 build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md)
|
||||
- [v3 build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md)
|
||||
260
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
260
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,260 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the build guide for Corne Cherry v2.
|
||||
[Corne Cherry v3 build guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md).
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
### Required
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| PCB | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Top plate | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Bottom plate | 2 sheets | PCB type and acrylic type can be selected |
|
||||
| ProMicro protective plate | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| ProMicro | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| TRRS jack | 2 | |
|
||||
| Tact switch | 2 | |
|
||||
| Diodes | 42 | Only chip parts |
|
||||
| Kailh PCB Sockets | 42 | |
|
||||
| Key switches | 42 | Only compatible with CherryMX |
|
||||
| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
|
||||
| OLED module | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| 4 pin headers | 2 | |
|
||||
| 4 pin sockets | 2 | |
|
||||
| Spacer M2 7.5mm | 10 pieces | |
|
||||
| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
|
||||
| Screw M2 4mm | 28 screws | |
|
||||
| Cushion rubber | 8 pieces | |
|
||||
| TRS (3-pole) cable | 1 | TRRS (4-pole) cable is also acceptable |
|
||||
| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
|
||||
|
||||
### Options
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| SK6812MINI | 54 pcs | Upward mounting 42 pcs, Downward mounting 12 pcs |
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it takes time to prepare the environment,
|
||||
so it is recommended to start first. \
|
||||
See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md> for more information.
|
||||
|
||||
## Implementation
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB is reversible, so first decide which one to use,
|
||||
left or right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Diode
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the diode of the chip part.
|
||||
You can attach it to either side, but in this build guide,
|
||||
we will attach it to the back side.
|
||||
When using [Tilting / Tenting plate](
|
||||
https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md),
|
||||
be sure to attach it to the back side \_\_.
|
||||
|
||||
Since the chip parts are very small,
|
||||
it is easier to work with tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
|
||||
**The diode is installed in a fixed direction **,
|
||||
so if you arrange the diode in the same row and row as shown in the photo below,
|
||||
it will proceed smoothly.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The orientation of the diode is as follows:
|
||||
Install so that the "|||" mark on the chip part faces the "|" of the diode mark "|◁".
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The trick is to attach the chip parts, but first, as a spare solder,
|
||||
put the solder only on the right side of the pad.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
|
||||
At this time, it is recommended to use reverse-action tweezers,
|
||||
because you can hold the chip parts firmly without exerting force
|
||||
and you can concentrate on alignment and soldering.
|
||||
Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too much,
|
||||
the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form a clean pile of solder,
|
||||
but it can be repaired later,
|
||||
so at this point you should only be aware of attaching parts.
|
||||
It's okay.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
|
||||
when one foot is attached.
|
||||
If it floats, press the diode with tweezers
|
||||
or your fingers and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the other one.
|
||||
Be careful not to apply too much as a small amount of solder is sufficient.
|
||||
If you apply too much, you can remove it with a blotting wire
|
||||
or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
|
||||
|
||||
If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
|
||||
additional soldering is performed, and if it is a mountain,
|
||||
apply flux from above and heat it to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### TRRS jack, reset switch
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the TRRS jack and reset switch to the surface of the PCB
|
||||
as shown in the picture below.
|
||||
In this build guide, the diode is attached to the back side,
|
||||
so it is the opposite side.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Jumpers and pin sockets for OLED modules
|
||||
|
||||
When using the OLED module, jumper as shown below.
|
||||
Please note that **only the surface should be jumpered**.
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the pin socket to the same surface.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If the jumper doesn't work, the amount of solder is probably too low
|
||||
or the flux in the solder has vaporized.
|
||||
In that case, you can fix a jumper by using a large amount of solder
|
||||
or applying a separate flux.
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the pin header so that it fits into the white frame,
|
||||
and then solder it with the back side of the Pro Micro facing up.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If you want to use the spring pin header,
|
||||
please refer to [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro).
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
|
||||
and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
|
||||
At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
|
||||
so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Operation check
|
||||
|
||||
It is recommended to check the operation when ProMicro and OLED module are attached
|
||||
(it will be difficult to isolate the problem if you do it at the very end).
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation, first insert the firmware for crkbd into ProMicro
|
||||
by referring to the "Firmware" chapter below (be sure to insert it on both sides).
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation, connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB
|
||||
and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRS cable.
|
||||
Since there may be defects such as jacks,
|
||||
be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one before checking the operation.
|
||||
If it is done correctly so far,
|
||||
if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
|
||||
the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Kailh PCB Socket
|
||||
|
||||
Fill the pads on both sides of the back with solder.
|
||||
It is difficult to add it later, so please add more in advance.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Insert the socket and attach it by melting the solder you have.
|
||||
At this time, hold it down with tweezers or your fingers
|
||||
so that the socket does not float.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Soldering is now complete.
|
||||
If you want to add an LED as an option,
|
||||
refer to the "LED" chapter below
|
||||
(it can be attached even after installing the socket).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Plates, switches
|
||||
|
||||
First, insert the switch into the top plate.
|
||||
It's okay to do it later, but it's easier to put it in first,
|
||||
because it's necessary to insert the switch from a little bit.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, attach the spacers with screws so that the top plate, PCB,
|
||||
and bottom plate are in that order,
|
||||
and attach the cushion rubber to the four corners to complete the process.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Firmware
|
||||
|
||||
Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
|
||||
<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
|
||||
## LED (optional)
|
||||
|
||||
I will install the SK6812 MINI.
|
||||
|
||||
The SK6812MINI is extremely heat sensitive and breaks easily.
|
||||
We recommend using a soldering iron with a temperature control function
|
||||
and working at a temperature of 220°C to 270°C.
|
||||
Even if the temperature is adjusted,
|
||||
it will be damaged if the iron is applied to the LED for a long time,
|
||||
so try to solder as quickly as possible.
|
||||
The LEDs are soldered four by four,
|
||||
but it is recommended that you do not do four at a time,
|
||||
but two at a time to prevent the LED temperature from rising,
|
||||
as it will be less likely to break.
|
||||
|
||||
First, check the mounting position.
|
||||
|
||||
Solder 1 to 6 so that the back side (Undergrow) shines,
|
||||
and 7 to 27 so that the front side (Backlight) shines.
|
||||
Below is the position to install the LED.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Solder 1 to 6 so that the black part circled as shown below is on the bottom
|
||||
and the silk mark indicated by the arrow is on the top.
|
||||
Please note that the orientation changes between 1 ~ 3 and 4 ~ 5.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Solder 7 to 27 so that the largest pad circled
|
||||
and the silk mark indicated by the arrow are adjacent to each other,
|
||||
as shown below.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If everything can be soldered normally, it will shine as shown below.
|
||||
If it shines only halfway, the LEDs are connected in numerical order,
|
||||
so suspect that the LED that does not shine
|
||||
or the LED in front of it is soldered incorrectly or that the LED is damaged.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
That's all there is to it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
61
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md
Normal file
61
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,61 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide Tilting / Tenting plate
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| Completed Corne Cherry | 1 set | Corne Chocolate / 3mm top plate is not supported |
|
||||
| Middle plate 3mm | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Bottom plate 3mm | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Bolt M5 15mm ~ 50mm | 8 bolts | |
|
||||
| Nut M5 | 16 pieces | |
|
||||
| Screw M2 6mm | 10 screws | |
|
||||
| Screw M2 4mm | 10 screws | |
|
||||
| Spacer M2 3.5mm | 10 pieces | |
|
||||
| Cushion rubber | 8 pieces | |
|
||||
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Remove the key switch from the finished Corne Cherry
|
||||
to separate the body from the top plate.
|
||||
No other parts are needed.
|
||||
|
||||
## Assembly
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Check the required parts.
|
||||
Check the dedicated middle plate and bottom plate, and bolts of various lengths.
|
||||
In addition, use screws, nuts, spacers, etc. (see the parts section for details).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Secure the middle plate to the top plate with 6mm screws and 3.5mm spacers.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Secure the OLED display protection plate with 4mm screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Secure the body and bottom plate with 4mm screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Insert an acrylic spacer between the middle plate
|
||||
and the bottom plate and attach the bolts.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is recommended to temporarily assemble the bolts
|
||||
and adjust the height before completely fixing them with nuts.
|
||||
Temporary assembly can be done easily by passing only one nut through the bolt.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is completed by firmly fixing it so that it is sandwiched between nuts.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
277
corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
277
corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,277 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the build guide for Corne Cherry v3.
|
||||
[Click here for Corne Cherry v2](
|
||||
https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md).
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
### Required
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| PCB | 1 set | |
|
||||
| Top plate | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Bottom plate | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| OLED protective plate | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| ProMicro | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| TRRS jack | 2 | |
|
||||
| Tact switch | 2 | |
|
||||
| Diodes | 42 | Only SMD parts are supported |
|
||||
| PCB sockets | 42 | Compatible with Kailh and Gateron |
|
||||
| Key switches | 42 | Only compatible with CherryMX |
|
||||
| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
|
||||
| Spacer M2 7.5mm | 10 pieces | |
|
||||
| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
|
||||
| Screw M2 4mm | 28 screws | |
|
||||
| Cushion rubber | 8 pieces | |
|
||||
| TRRS (4 poles) cable | 1 | TRS (3 poles) cable is also acceptable |
|
||||
| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
|
||||
|
||||
### Options
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| OLED module | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Pin header for OLED module 4 series 1.5mm | 2 | |
|
||||
| 4 pin sockets for OLED module 2.5mm | 2 | |
|
||||
| SK6812MINI-E | 42 pieces | LEDs for Back light |
|
||||
| WS2812B | 12 | LEDs for Undergrow |
|
||||
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it takes time to prepare the environment,
|
||||
so it is recommended to start first. \
|
||||
See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
for more information.
|
||||
|
||||
## Verification
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB for Corne Cherry v3 is as follows.
|
||||
Make sure it is the same as your PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB comes with a frame for manufacturing reasons.
|
||||
You can fold it by hand to remove it, but if it is difficult,
|
||||
make a cut in the joint \* with a cutter etc. to make it easier to remove.
|
||||
In addition, the joint can be cleaned with a file.
|
||||
|
||||
\* *Joint part: There are a total of 8 parts,
|
||||
which are marked in red in the image below.*
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Assembly
|
||||
|
||||
### Diode
|
||||
|
||||
Solder diodes for SMD components.
|
||||
Since SMD parts are very small,
|
||||
it is convenient to have tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
|
||||
|
||||
**The diode has a fixed mounting direction**,
|
||||
and solder it so that the "|" mark on the part faces the "|" on the diode mark "|◁".
|
||||
In addition, Corne's PCB has all the same diode mounting orientations.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
<details>
|
||||
<summary>TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts</summary>
|
||||
|
||||
The trick is to attach the SMD parts, but first, as a spare solder,
|
||||
put the solder on only one side of the pad.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
|
||||
At this time, it is recommended to use reverse-action tweezers,
|
||||
because you can hold the chip parts firmly without exerting force
|
||||
and you can concentrate on alignment and soldering.
|
||||
Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too much,
|
||||
the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form a clean pile of solder,
|
||||
but it can be repaired later,
|
||||
so at this point you should only be aware of attaching parts.
|
||||
It's okay.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
|
||||
when one foot is attached.
|
||||
If it floats, press the diode with tweezers or your fingers
|
||||
and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the other one. Be careful not to apply too much,
|
||||
as a small amount of solder is sufficient.
|
||||
If you apply too much, you can remove it with a blotting wire
|
||||
or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
|
||||
|
||||
If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
|
||||
additional soldering is performed, and if it is a mountain,
|
||||
apply flux from above and heat it to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</details>
|
||||
|
||||
The diode is completed by soldering 42 pieces in total on the left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### LED (optional)
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the SK6812MINI-E and WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
First, check the state after installation.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
All soldering is done from the back side, but the SK6812MINI-E is for Backlight
|
||||
(the front side is shining) and the WS2812B is for Undergrow (the back side is shining).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### WS2812B (Undergrow)
|
||||
|
||||
First, solder the WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
Solder with the corners of the recesses on the WS2812B
|
||||
and the corner marks on the PCB aligned as shown below.
|
||||
**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
|
||||
I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
|
||||
|
||||
In addition, his PCB of Corne has the same mounting orientation of his WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
He soldered a total of 8 pieces on the left and right, and he completed the WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### SK6812MINI-E (Backlight)
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the SK6812MINI-E.
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the SK6812MINI-E with the missing corners aligned with the PCB corners
|
||||
as shown below.
|
||||
**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
|
||||
I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
|
||||
It is harder to break than the SK6812MINI,
|
||||
but it may be damaged if it is directly exposed to the heat of a soldering iron.
|
||||
If the temperature is about 320°C
|
||||
with a soldering iron with a temperature control function,
|
||||
it seems that there is no problem even if four legs are soldered continuously.
|
||||
|
||||
All Corne PCBs have the same mounting orientation for the SK6812MINI-E.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
SK6812MINI-E is completed by soldering a total of 42 pieces on the left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### TRRS jack, reset switch, pin socket for OLED
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the TRRS jack, reset switch (tact switch),
|
||||
and OLED pin socket as shown in the picture below.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Since it is a part that easily slips off,
|
||||
you can solder it while holding the part by hand,
|
||||
or fix it with masking tape and then solder it.
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro
|
||||
|
||||
Solder ProMicro in the following orientation
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If you use Conthru, you do not need to solder the back side.
|
||||
Please refer to [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
|
||||
for details on how to use Consul.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
|
||||
and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
|
||||
At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
|
||||
so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Firmware
|
||||
|
||||
Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
|
||||
<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
|
||||
### Operation check
|
||||
|
||||
We recommend that you check the operation when the ProMicro and OLED module are attached.
|
||||
If you do it at the very end, it will be difficult to isolate the problem.
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation, connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB,
|
||||
and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRRS cable.
|
||||
Since there may be defects such as jacks,
|
||||
be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one before checking the operation.
|
||||
If it is done correctly so far,
|
||||
if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
|
||||
the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
|
||||
|
||||
### PCB socket
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the PCB socket according to the mark as shown below.
|
||||
All the PCB sockets are listed below,
|
||||
but I'm not really into it,
|
||||
so attach them one by one.
|
||||
**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
|
||||
I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB socket is completed by soldering a total of 42 left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED protective plate
|
||||
|
||||
Install the OLED protective plate with M2 9mm spacers and M2 screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Plates, switches
|
||||
|
||||
After attaching the key switch to the top plate,
|
||||
fit the key switch into the socket.
|
||||
If you attach all the key switches to the top plate first,
|
||||
it will be more difficult to fit them in the socket,
|
||||
so it is easier to attach only the end key switches first.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Install the M2 7.5mm spacer and M2 screws on the top plate.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is easy to screw the spacer after inserting it into the hole from the back side.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the bottom plate with M2 screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Install the cushion rubber in the following positions.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
That's it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
8
corne-light/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
8
corne-light/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the Corne Light build guide.
|
||||
The build guide differs depending on the version,
|
||||
so please choose your own from the following.
|
||||
|
||||
- [v1 build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-light/doc/v1/buildguide_en.md)
|
||||
- [v2 low-edition build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-light/doc/v2/buildguide_low_edition_en.md)
|
||||
244
corne-light/doc/v1/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
244
corne-light/doc/v1/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,244 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the Corne Light build guide.
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
<table>
|
||||
<thead>
|
||||
<tr> <td width = "30%"> Name </td> <td width = "15%"> Number </td> <td> Remarks </td> </tr>
|
||||
</header>
|
||||
<tbody>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> PCB </td>
|
||||
<td> 1 set </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Top plate </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 sheets </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Bottom plate </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 sheets </td>
|
||||
<td rowspan = "2">
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> ProMicro protective plate </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 sheets </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> diode </td>
|
||||
<td> 42 </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Spacer M2 7.5mm </td>
|
||||
<td> 10 </td>
|
||||
<td rowspan = "3">
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Spacer M2 9mm </td>
|
||||
<td> 4 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Screw M2 4mm </td>
|
||||
<td> 28 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> TRRS jack </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
<td rowspan = "3">
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Reset switch </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Rubber feet </td>
|
||||
<td> 8 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> ProMicro (with conthrough) </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
<a href="https://yushakobo.jp/shop/promicro-spring-pinheader/"> https://yushakobo.jp/shop/promicro-spring-pinheader/ </a>
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> OLED module (with pin socket) </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
<a href="https://yushakobo.jp/shop/oled/"> https://yushakobo.jp/shop/oled/ </a>
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> key switch </td>
|
||||
<td> 42 </td>
|
||||
<td> </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> keycap </td>
|
||||
<td> 42 </td>
|
||||
<td> </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> TRRS cable </td>
|
||||
<td> 1 </td>
|
||||
<td> TRS cable is also acceptable </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> USB cable </td>
|
||||
<td> 1 </td>
|
||||
<td> </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
</tbody>
|
||||
</table>
|
||||
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it takes time to prepare the environment,
|
||||
so it is recommended to start first. \
|
||||
See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md> for more information.
|
||||
|
||||
## Implementation
|
||||
|
||||
### PCB disconnection
|
||||
|
||||
Check the front and back and separate the left and right PCBs
|
||||
(the photo is the front).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
This is a jig for bending the legs of a diode.
|
||||
Separate it if necessary.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Some versions do not have a jig.
|
||||
|
||||
### diode
|
||||
|
||||
First, bend the legs of the reed type diode.
|
||||
|
||||
* You can clean it by bending it one by one as shown in the picture,
|
||||
but it is more efficient to bend multiple pieces at the same time
|
||||
while connected to the tape.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the diode with the bent leg to the specified position.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The diode has an orientation and is installed as shown in the photo.
|
||||
|
||||
* All the diodes to be attached are in the same orientation.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
You can attach it neatly by fixing it with masking tape.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Solder from the back side.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If you are fixing with masking tape,
|
||||
cutting your legs to the limit like this will make soldering easier.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
With 21 one-handed and two-handed he installs 42 diodes.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### TRRS jack, reset switch, pin socket
|
||||
|
||||
Install in the specified position.
|
||||
|
||||
* Install the right hand side in the same position
|
||||
(be careful of mistakes on the front and back).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro, OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
Install his ProMicro and his OLED module by referring to the [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Write firmware
|
||||
|
||||
Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
|
||||
<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
|
||||
### Operation check
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation,
|
||||
connect the left hand side to the PC with a USB cable,
|
||||
and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with a TRRS cable.
|
||||
Since there may be defects such as jacks,
|
||||
be sure to connect the left and right
|
||||
instead of one by one before checking the operation.
|
||||
|
||||
* Since the switch is not attached,
|
||||
check the operation with tweezers as shown in the photo.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Top plate, key switch
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the key switch to the top plate as shown in the picture.
|
||||
|
||||
* Be careful of the direction of the key switch.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
We recommend using a 3-pin key switch.
|
||||
|
||||
* Even when using 5 pins, the plastic legs can be separated to make 3 pins.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Solder so that there is no gap between the switch and the PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro Protective Plate, Bottom Plate
|
||||
|
||||
Attach his ProMicro protective plate using an M2 9mm spacer.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Install the bottom plate using the M2 7.5mm spacer.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the rubber feet to the four corners.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Complete
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the keycap and you're done.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
205
corne-light/doc/v2/buildguide_low_edition_en.md
Normal file
205
corne-light/doc/v2/buildguide_low_edition_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,205 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the build guide for Corne Light v2 Low edition.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
### Required
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| PCB | 1 set | |
|
||||
| Top plate (acrylic) 2mm | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Bottom foam | 2 sheets | Special foam is cut out with a special mold |
|
||||
| OLED protective plate | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| ProMicro | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| TRRS jack | 2 | |
|
||||
| Tact switch | 2 | |
|
||||
| Diodes | 42 | Recommended SMD Parts |
|
||||
| Key switches | 42 | Kailh Choc v1 or v2 recommended |
|
||||
| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
|
||||
| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
|
||||
| Screw M2 4mm | 8 screws | |
|
||||
| TRRS (4 poles) cable | 1 | TRS (3 poles) cable is also acceptable |
|
||||
| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
|
||||
|
||||
### Options
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| OLED module | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Pin header for OLED module 4 series 1.5mm | 2 | |
|
||||
| 4 pin sockets for OLED module 2.5mm | 2 | |
|
||||
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it takes time to prepare the environment,
|
||||
so it is recommended to start first. \
|
||||
See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
for more information.
|
||||
|
||||
## Verification
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB for Corne Light v2 is as follows.
|
||||
Make sure it is the same as your PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB comes with a frame for manufacturing reasons.
|
||||
You can fold it by hand to remove it, but if it is difficult,
|
||||
make a cut in the joint \* with a cutter or similar,
|
||||
to make it easier to remove.
|
||||
In addition, the joint can be cleaned with a file.
|
||||
|
||||
\* *Joint part: There are a total of 8 parts,
|
||||
which are marked in red in the image below.*
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Assembly
|
||||
|
||||
### diode
|
||||
|
||||
Solder diodes for SMD components.
|
||||
Since SMD parts are very small,
|
||||
it is convenient to have tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
|
||||
|
||||
**The diode has a fixed mounting direction**,
|
||||
so solder it so that the "|" mark on the part faces the "|" on the diode mark "|◁".
|
||||
In addition, Corne's PCB has all the same diode mounting orientations.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
<details>
|
||||
<summary>TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts</summary>
|
||||
|
||||
The trick is to attach the SMD parts, but first, as a spare solder,
|
||||
put the solder on only one side of the pad.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
|
||||
At this time, it is recommended to use reverse-action tweezers,
|
||||
because you can hold the chip parts firmly without exerting force
|
||||
and you can concentrate on alignment and soldering.
|
||||
Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too much,
|
||||
the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form a clean pile of solder,
|
||||
but it can be repaired later,
|
||||
so at this point you should only care about attaching parts.
|
||||
It's okay.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
|
||||
when one foot is attached.
|
||||
If it floats, press the diode with tweezers or your fingers
|
||||
and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the other one.
|
||||
Be careful not to apply too much, as a small amount of solder is sufficient.
|
||||
If you apply too much, you can remove it with a blotting wire
|
||||
or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
|
||||
|
||||
If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
|
||||
additional soldering is performed, and if it is a mountain,
|
||||
apply flux from above and heat it to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</details>
|
||||
|
||||
The diode is completed by soldering 42 pieces in total on the left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### TRRS jack, reset switch, pin socket for OLED
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the TRRS jack, reset switch (tact switch),
|
||||
and OLED pin socket as shown in the picture below.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Since it is a part that easily slips off,
|
||||
you can solder it while holding the part by hand,
|
||||
or fix it with masking tape and then solder it.
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro
|
||||
|
||||
Solder ProMicro in the following orientation
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If you use Conthru, you do not need to solder the back side.
|
||||
Please refer to [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
|
||||
for details on how to use Consul.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
|
||||
and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
|
||||
At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
|
||||
so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Firmware
|
||||
|
||||
Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
|
||||
<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
|
||||
### Operation check
|
||||
|
||||
We recommend that you check the operation when the ProMicro and OLED module are attached.
|
||||
If you do it at the very end, it will be difficult to isolate the problem.
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation, connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB,
|
||||
and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRRS cable.
|
||||
Since there may be defects such as jacks,
|
||||
be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one
|
||||
before checking the operation.
|
||||
If it is done correctly so far,
|
||||
if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
|
||||
the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
|
||||
|
||||
### Top plate, switch
|
||||
|
||||
After attaching the key switch to the top plate, solder the key switch.
|
||||
If you attach all the key switches to the top plate first,
|
||||
it will be more difficult to attach the switches to the board,
|
||||
so it is easier to attach only the end key switches first.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED protective plate
|
||||
|
||||
Attach his OLED protective plate with M2 9mm spacers and M2 screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Especially for the screws on the back side,
|
||||
tighten them firmly to attach the bottom foam after this.
|
||||
|
||||
### Bottom form
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, paste the bottom form.
|
||||
This foam has an adhesive surface on one side
|
||||
and a non-slip surface on the other side.
|
||||
Stick the adhesive side firmly to the PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
That's it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Loading…
Reference in New Issue
Block a user