Merge pull request #104 from hoijui/master
Add all missing English translations of MD documents
This commit is contained in:
Kosuke Adachi
GitHub
commit
eef44082c5
13
README.md
13
README.md
@ -6,13 +6,18 @@ Crkbd stands for Corne Keyboard.
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## Lineup
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- corne-classic([JP](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
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- corne-classic
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([JP](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
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Corne for Cherry MX switches
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- corne-cherry([JP](corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_jp.md)) ([tilting, JP](corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_jp.md)):
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- corne-cherry
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([JP](corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md))
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([tilting, JP](corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_jp.md)/[tilting, EN](corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md)):
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Hotswappable Corne for Cherry MX switches by kailh PCB sockets.
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- corne-chocolate([JP](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
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- corne-chocolate
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([JP](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-chocolate/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
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Hotswappable Corne for Chocolate switches using Kailh PCB hot-swap sockets.
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- corne-light([JP](corne-light/doc/buildguide_jp.md)):
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- corne-light
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([JP](corne-light/doc/buildguide_jp.md)/[EN](corne-light/doc/buildguide_en.md)):
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Light-weight Corne (Easy build with a simple PCB).
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## Photos
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8
corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
8
corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
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# Build Guide
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This is the Corne Cherry build guide.
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The build guide differs depending on the version of your board,
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so please choose your own from the following.
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- [v2 build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md)
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- [v3 build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md)
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264
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
264
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,264 @@
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# Build Guide
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This is the build guide for Corne Cherry v2.
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[Click here for the Corne Cherry v3 build guide](
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https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md).
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## Parts
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### Required
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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|:-|:-|:-|
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| PCB | 2 sheets | |
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| Top plate | 2 sheets | |
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| Bottom plate | 2 sheets | PCB type and acrylic type can be selected |
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| ProMicro protective plate | 2 sheets | |
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| ProMicro | 2 sheets | |
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| TRRS jack | 2 | |
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| Tact switch | 2 | |
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| Diodes | 42 | Only chip parts |
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| Kailh PCB Sockets | 42 | |
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| Key switches | 42 | Only compatible with CherryMX |
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| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
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| OLED module | 2 sheets | |
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| 4 pin headers | 2 | |
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| 4 pin sockets | 2 | |
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| Spacer M2 7.5mm | 10 pieces | |
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| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
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| Screw M2 4mm | 28 screws | |
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| Cushion rubber | 8 pieces | |
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| TRS (3-pole) cable | 1 | TRRS (4-pole) cable is also acceptable |
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| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
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### Optional
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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|:-|:-|:-|
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| SK6812MINI | 54 pcs | Upward mounting 42 pcs, Downward mounting 12 pcs |
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## Advance preparation
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If you build the firmware yourself,
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it takes time to prepare the environment,
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so it is recommended to start first. \
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See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
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for more information.
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## Implementation
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The PCB is reversible, so first decide which one to use,
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left or right.
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### Diodes
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Solder the diode of the chip part.
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You can attach it to either side, but in this build guide,
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we will attach it to the back side.
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When using [Tilting / Tenting plate](
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https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md),
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be sure to attach it to the back side \_\_.
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Since the chip parts are very small,
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it is easier to work with tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
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**The diode is installed in a fixed direction **,
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so if you arrange the diode in the same row and row as shown in the photo below,
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it will proceed smoothly.
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The orientation of the diode is as follows:
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Install so that the "|||" mark on the chip part faces the "|" of the diode mark "|◁".
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The trick is to attach the chip parts, but first, as a spare solder,
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put the solder only on the right side of the pad.
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Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
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At this time, it is recommended to use reverse-action tweezers,
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because you can hold the chip parts firmly without exerting force
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and you can concentrate on alignment and soldering.
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Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too much,
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the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form a clean pile of solder,
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but it can be repaired later,
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so at this point you should only care about attaching parts.
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It's okay.
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It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
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when one foot is attached.
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If it floats, press the diode with tweezers or your fingers
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and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
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Then solder the other one.
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Be careful not to apply too much,
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as a small amount of solder is sufficient.
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If you apply too much, you can remove it with a blotting wire
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or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
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If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
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additional soldering is performed, and if it is a mountain,
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apply flux from above and heat it to clean it.
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### TRRS jack, reset switch
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Solder the TRRS jack and reset switch to the surface of the PCB
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as shown in the picture below.
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In this build guide, the diode is attached to the back side,
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so it is the opposite side.
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### Jumpers and pin sockets for OLED modules
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When using the OLED module, jumper as shown below.
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Please note that **only the surface should be jumpered**.
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Solder the pin socket to the same surface.
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If the jumper doesn't work, the amount of solder is probably too low
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or the flux in the solder has vaporized.
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In that case, you can fix a jumper by using a large amount of solder
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or applying a separate flux.
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### ProMicro
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Solder the pin header so that it fits into the white frame,
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and then solder it with the back side of the Pro Micro facing up.
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If you want to use spring-loaded pin headers,
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please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](
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https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro).
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### OLED module
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Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
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and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
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At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
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so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
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### Operation check
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It is recommended to check the operation when ProMicro and OLED module are attached
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(it will be difficult to isolate the problem if you do it at the very end).
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To check the operation, first insert the firmware for crkbd into ProMicro
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by referring to the "Firmware" chapter below (be sure to insert it on both sides).
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To check the operation,
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connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB,
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and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRS cable.
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Since there may be defects such as jacks,
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be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one
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before checking the operation.
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If it is done correctly so far,
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if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
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the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
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### Kailh PCB Socket
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Fill the pads on both sides of the back with solder.
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It is difficult to add it later, so please add more in advance.
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Insert the socket and attach it by melting the solder you have.
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At this time, hold it down with tweezers or your fingers
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so that the socket does not float.
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Soldering is now complete.
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If you want to add an LED as an option,
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refer to the "LED" chapter below
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(it can be attached even after installing the socket).
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### Plates, switches
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First, insert the switch into the top plate.
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It's okay to do it later, but it's easier to put it in first,
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because it's necessary to insert the switch from a little bit.
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Finally, attach the spacers with screws so that the top plate, PCB,
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and bottom plate are in that order,
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and attach the cushion rubber to the four corners to complete the process.
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## Firmware
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Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
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<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
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## LED (optional)
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I will install the SK6812 MINI.
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The SK6812MINI is extremely heat sensitive and breaks easily.
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We recommend using a soldering iron with a temperature control function
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and working at a temperature of 220°C to 270°C.
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Even if the temperature is adjusted,
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it will be damaged if the iron is applied to the LED for a long time,
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so try to solder as quickly as possible.
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The LEDs are soldered four by four,
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but it is recommended that you do not do four at a time,
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but two at a time to prevent the LED temperature from rising,
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as it will be less likely to break.
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First, check the mounting position.
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Solder 1 to 6 so that the back side (Undergrow) shines,
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and 7 to 27 so that the front side (Backlight) shines.
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Below is the position to install the LED.
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Solder 1 to 6 so that the black part circled as shown below is on the bottom
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and the silk mark indicated by the arrow is on the top.
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Please note that the orientation changes between 1 ~ 3 and 4 ~ 5.
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Solder 7 to 27 so that the largest pad circled
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and the silk mark indicated by the arrow are adjacent to each other,
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as shown below.
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If everything can be soldered normally, it will shine as shown below.
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If it shines only halfway, the LEDs are connected in numerical order,
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so suspect that the LED that does not shine
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or the LED in front of it is soldered incorrectly or that the LED is damaged.
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That's all there is to it.
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61
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md
Normal file
61
corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_tilting_tenting_plate_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,61 @@
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# Build Guide Tilting / Tenting plate
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## Parts
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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|:-|:-|:-|
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| Completed Corne Cherry | 1 set | Corne Chocolate / 3mm top plate is not supported |
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| Middle plate 3mm | 2 sheets | |
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| Bottom plate 3mm | 2 sheets | |
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| Bolt M5 15mm ~ 50mm | 8 bolts | |
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| Nut M5 | 16 pieces | |
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| Screw M2 6mm | 10 screws | |
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| Screw M2 4mm | 10 screws | |
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| Spacer M2 3.5mm | 10 pieces | |
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| Cushion rubber | 8 pieces | |
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## Advance preparation
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Remove the key switch from the finished Corne Cherry
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to separate the body from the top plate.
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No other parts are needed.
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## Assembly
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Check the required parts.
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Check the dedicated middle plate and bottom plate, and bolts of various lengths.
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In addition, use screws, nuts, spacers, etc. (see the parts section for details).
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Secure the middle plate to the top plate with 6mm screws and 3.5mm spacers.
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Secure the OLED display protection plate with 4mm screws.
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Secure the body and bottom plate with 4mm screws.
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Insert an acrylic spacer between the middle plate
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and the bottom plate and attach the bolts.
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It is recommended to temporarily assemble the bolts
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and adjust the height before completely fixing them with nuts.
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Temporary assembly can be done easily by passing only one nut through the bolt.
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It is completed by firmly fixing it so that it is sandwiched between nuts.
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284
corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
284
corne-cherry/doc/v3/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,284 @@
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# Build Guide
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This is the build guide for Corne Cherry v3.
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[Click here for the Corne Cherry v2 build guide](
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https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.md).
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## Parts
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### Required
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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|:-|:-|:-|
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| PCB | 1 set | |
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| Top plate | 2 sheets | |
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| Bottom plate | 2 sheets | |
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| OLED protective plate | 2 sheets | |
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| ProMicro | 2 sheets | |
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| TRRS jack | 2 | |
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| Tact switch | 2 | |
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| Diodes | 42 | Only SMD parts are supported |
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| PCB sockets | 42 | Compatible with Kailh and Gateron |
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| Key switches | 42 | Only compatible with CherryMX |
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| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
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| Spacer M2 7.5mm | 10 pieces | |
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| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
|
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| Screw M2 4mm | 28 screws | |
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| Cushion rubber | 8 pieces | |
|
||||
| TRRS (4 poles) cable | 1 | TRS (3 poles) cable is also acceptable |
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| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
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### Optional
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||||
|
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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||||
|:-|:-|:-|
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| OLED module | 2 sheets | |
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| Pin header for OLED module 4 series 1.5mm | 2 | |
|
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| 4 pin sockets for OLED module 2.5mm | 2 | |
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||||
| SK6812MINI-E | 42 pieces | LEDs for Back light |
|
||||
| WS2812B | 12 | LEDs for Undergrow |
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## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it will take some time to set up the environment,
|
||||
so it's best to start at the beginning. \
|
||||
For more information,
|
||||
please see <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>.
|
||||
|
||||
## Verification
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB for Corne Cherry v3 is as follows.
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Make sure it is the same as your PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB comes with a frame for manufacturing reasons.
|
||||
You can fold it by hand to remove it, but if it is difficult,
|
||||
make a cut in the joint \* with a cutter or similar,
|
||||
to make it easier to remove.
|
||||
In addition, the joint can be cleaned with a file.
|
||||
|
||||
\* *Joint part: There are a total of 8 parts,
|
||||
which are marked in red in the image below.*
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Assembly
|
||||
|
||||
### Diodes
|
||||
|
||||
Solder diodes for SMD components.
|
||||
Since SMD parts are very small,
|
||||
it is convenient to have tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
|
||||
|
||||
**The diode has a fixed mounting direction**,
|
||||
so solder it so that the "|" mark on the part faces the "|" on the diode mark "|◁".
|
||||
In addition, Corne's PCB has all the same diode mounting orientations.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
<details>
|
||||
<summary>TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts</summary>
|
||||
|
||||
The trick is to attach the SMD parts, but first, as a spare solder,
|
||||
put the solder on only one side of the pad.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
|
||||
At this time,
|
||||
it is recommended to use [reverse-action tweezers](https://www.alimed.com/_resources/cache/images/product/70895A_850x480-pad.jpg),
|
||||
so that you can hold the SMD part firmly without applying force,
|
||||
and concentrate on alignment and soldering instead.
|
||||
Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too long,
|
||||
the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form an undesirable pile solder,
|
||||
but since it can be repaired later,
|
||||
so at this point you should only care about attaching parts.
|
||||
It's okay.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
|
||||
when one foot is attached.
|
||||
If it floats, press the diode with tweezers or your fingers
|
||||
and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the other pin.
|
||||
Be careful not to apply too much solder,
|
||||
as a small amount is sufficient.
|
||||
If you have applied too much,
|
||||
you can remove it with a suction pump, blotting wire
|
||||
or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
|
||||
|
||||
If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
|
||||
additional soldering is performed, and if it is a heap,
|
||||
apply flux from above and heat it to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</details>
|
||||
|
||||
The diode is completed by soldering 42 pieces in total on the left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### LED (optional)
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the SK6812MINI-E and WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
First, check the state after installation.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
All soldering is done from the back side, but the SK6812MINI-E is for Backlight
|
||||
(the front side is shining) and the WS2812B is for Undergrow (the back side is shining).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### WS2812B (Undergrow)
|
||||
|
||||
First, solder the WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
Solder with the corners of the recesses on the WS2812B
|
||||
and the corner marks on the PCB aligned as shown below.
|
||||
**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
|
||||
I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
|
||||
|
||||
In addition, his PCB of Corne has the same mounting orientation of his WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
He soldered a total of 8 pieces on the left and right, and he completed the WS2812B.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### SK6812MINI-E (Backlight)
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the SK6812MINI-E.
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the SK6812MINI-E with the missing corners aligned with the PCB corners
|
||||
as shown below.
|
||||
**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
|
||||
I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
|
||||
It is harder to break than the SK6812MINI,
|
||||
but it may be damaged if it is directly exposed to the heat of a soldering iron.
|
||||
If the temperature is about 320°C
|
||||
with a soldering iron with a temperature control function,
|
||||
it seems that there is no problem even if four legs are soldered continuously.
|
||||
|
||||
All Corne PCBs have the same mounting orientation for the SK6812MINI-E.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
SK6812MINI-E is completed by soldering a total of 42 pieces on the left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### TRRS jack, reset switch, pin socket for OLED
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the TRRS jack, reset switch (tact switch),
|
||||
and OLED pin socket as shown in the picture below.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Since it is a part that easily slips off,
|
||||
you can solder it while holding the part by hand,
|
||||
or fix it with masking tape and then solder it.
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro
|
||||
|
||||
Solder ProMicro in the following orientation
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If you use spring-loaded pin headers (e.g. Conthrough),
|
||||
you do not need to solder the back side.
|
||||
Please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
|
||||
for details on how to use spring-loaded pin headers.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
|
||||
and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
|
||||
At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
|
||||
so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Firmware
|
||||
|
||||
Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
|
||||
<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
|
||||
### Operation check
|
||||
|
||||
We recommend that you check the operation when the ProMicro and OLED module are attached.
|
||||
If you do it at the very end, it will be difficult to isolate the problem.
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation,
|
||||
connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB,
|
||||
and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRRS cable.
|
||||
Since there may be defects such as jacks,
|
||||
be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one
|
||||
before checking the operation.
|
||||
If it is done correctly so far,
|
||||
if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
|
||||
the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
|
||||
|
||||
### PCB socket
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the PCB socket according to the mark as shown below.
|
||||
All the PCB sockets are listed below,
|
||||
but I'm not really into it,
|
||||
so attach them one by one.
|
||||
**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
|
||||
I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB socket is completed by soldering a total of 42 left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED protective plate
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the OLED protective plate with M2 9mm spacers and M2 screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Plates, switches
|
||||
|
||||
After attaching the key switch to the top plate,
|
||||
fit the key switch into the socket.
|
||||
If you attach all the key switches to the top plate first,
|
||||
it will be more difficult to fit them in the socket,
|
||||
so it is easier to attach only the end key switches first.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Install the M2 7.5mm spacer and M2 screws on the top plate.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is easy to screw the spacer after inserting it into the hole from the back side.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the bottom plate with M2 screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Install the cushion rubber in the following positions.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
That's it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
@ -1,14 +1,14 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the build guide for Corne Chocolate.
|
||||
[Click here for Corne Cherry](
|
||||
[Click here for the Corne Cherry build guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md).
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
### Required
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
| Name | Count | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| PCB | 2 pieces | |
|
||||
| Top plate | 2 pieces | |
|
||||
@ -33,11 +33,11 @@ https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_en.md).
|
||||
|
||||
### Optional
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Number | Remarks |
|
||||
| Name | Count | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| SK6812MINI | 54 | 42 for backlight, 12 for under-glow |
|
||||
|
||||
## Preparation
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it will take some time to set up the environment,
|
||||
@ -82,21 +82,23 @@ First put solder only on the right side of the pad.
|
||||
|
||||
Next, solder one of the diodes by melting the solder you already put on the board.
|
||||
At this time,
|
||||
it is recommended that you use inverted tweezers
|
||||
it is recommended to use [reverse-action tweezers](https://www.alimed.com/_resources/cache/images/product/70895A_850x480-pad.jpg),
|
||||
so that you can hold the SMD part firmly without applying force,
|
||||
and concentrate on alignment and soldering instead.
|
||||
Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too long,
|
||||
the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and a solder pile may be formed,
|
||||
the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form an undesirable pile solder,
|
||||
but since it can be repaired later,
|
||||
at this point just be aware of attaching parts;
|
||||
so at this point you should only care about attaching parts.
|
||||
It's okay.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the other pin.
|
||||
Be careful not to apply too much solder because a small amount is sufficient.
|
||||
Be careful not to apply too much solder,
|
||||
as a small amount is sufficient.
|
||||
If you have applied too much,
|
||||
you can remove it with a suction pump or scoop it with a soldering iron.
|
||||
you can remove it with a suction pump, blotting wire
|
||||
or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
@ -140,8 +142,9 @@ and solder the Pro Micro with back side up.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
When using the spring pin header,
|
||||
please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro).
|
||||
When using the spring-loaded pin headers,
|
||||
please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro).
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
@ -150,7 +153,7 @@ please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/
|
||||
Insert the pin header into the OLED pin socket first,
|
||||
then solder the pin header and the OLED module.
|
||||
At this time,
|
||||
make sure that he OLED module sits tightly on the socket
|
||||
make sure that the OLED module sits tightly on the socket
|
||||
while holding it down with your finger,
|
||||
because it tends to stick out easily.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@
|
||||
|
||||
### Required
|
||||
|
||||
| Item | Count | Remark |
|
||||
| Name | Count | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| PCB | 2 | |
|
||||
| Plate | 2 sets | |
|
||||
@ -22,7 +22,7 @@
|
||||
|
||||
### Optional
|
||||
|
||||
| Item | Count | Remark |
|
||||
| Name | Count | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| OLED Module | 1 or 2 | |
|
||||
| 4x1 Pin Male Header | 2 | For OLED |
|
||||
@ -32,7 +32,7 @@
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Preparation
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it will take some time to set up the environment,
|
||||
@ -165,7 +165,8 @@ Two methods are introduced here.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Using Spring Loaded Header
|
||||
|
||||
Refer to [Helix Buildguide](https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
|
||||
Refer to the [Helix build guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
|
||||
|
||||
ProMicro kit with spring loaded headers is available at Yusha-Kobo
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
8
corne-light/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
8
corne-light/doc/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the Corne Light build guide.
|
||||
The build guide differs depending on the version of your board,
|
||||
so please choose your own from the following.
|
||||
|
||||
- [v1 build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-light/doc/v1/buildguide_en.md)
|
||||
- [v2 low-edition build guide](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-light/doc/v2/buildguide_low_edition_en.md)
|
||||
245
corne-light/doc/v1/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
245
corne-light/doc/v1/buildguide_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,245 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the Corne Light v1 build guide.
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
<table>
|
||||
<thead>
|
||||
<tr> <td width = "30%"> Name </td> <td width = "15%"> Count </td> <td> Remarks </td> </tr>
|
||||
</header>
|
||||
<tbody>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> PCB </td>
|
||||
<td> 1 set </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Top plate </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 sheets </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Bottom plate </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 sheets </td>
|
||||
<td rowspan = "2">
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> ProMicro protective plate </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 sheets </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> diode </td>
|
||||
<td> 42 </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Spacer M2 7.5mm </td>
|
||||
<td> 10 </td>
|
||||
<td rowspan = "3">
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Spacer M2 9mm </td>
|
||||
<td> 4 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Screw M2 4mm </td>
|
||||
<td> 28 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> TRRS jack </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
<td rowspan = "3">
|
||||
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Reset switch </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> Rubber feet </td>
|
||||
<td> 8 </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> ProMicro (with conthrough) </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
<a href="https://yushakobo.jp/shop/promicro-spring-pinheader/"> https://yushakobo.jp/shop/promicro-spring-pinheader/ </a>
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> OLED module (with pin socket) </td>
|
||||
<td> 2 </td>
|
||||
<td>
|
||||
<a href="https://yushakobo.jp/shop/oled/"> https://yushakobo.jp/shop/oled/ </a>
|
||||
</td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> key switch </td>
|
||||
<td> 42 </td>
|
||||
<td> </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> keycap </td>
|
||||
<td> 42 </td>
|
||||
<td> </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> TRRS cable </td>
|
||||
<td> 1 </td>
|
||||
<td> TRS cable is also acceptable </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
<tr>
|
||||
<td> USB cable </td>
|
||||
<td> 1 </td>
|
||||
<td> </td>
|
||||
</tr>
|
||||
</tbody>
|
||||
</table>
|
||||
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it takes time to prepare the environment,
|
||||
so it is recommended to start first. \
|
||||
See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
for more information.
|
||||
|
||||
## Implementation
|
||||
|
||||
### PCB disconnection
|
||||
|
||||
Check the front and back and separate the left and right PCBs
|
||||
(the photo is the front).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
This is a jig for bending the legs of a diode.
|
||||
Separate it if necessary.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Some versions do not have a jig.
|
||||
|
||||
### Diodes
|
||||
|
||||
First, bend the legs of the reed type diode.
|
||||
|
||||
* You can clean it by bending it one by one as shown in the picture,
|
||||
but it is more efficient to bend multiple pieces at the same time
|
||||
while connected to the tape.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the diode with the bent leg to the specified position.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The diode has an orientation and is installed as shown in the photo.
|
||||
|
||||
* All the diodes to be attached are in the same orientation.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
You can attach it neatly by fixing it with masking tape.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Solder from the back side.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If you are fixing with masking tape,
|
||||
cutting your legs to the limit like this will make soldering easier.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
With 21 one-handed and two-handed he installs 42 diodes.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### TRRS jack, reset switch, pin socket
|
||||
|
||||
Install in the specified position.
|
||||
|
||||
* Install the right hand side in the same position
|
||||
(be careful of mistakes on the front and back).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro, OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
Install his ProMicro and his OLED module by referring to the [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro).
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Firmware
|
||||
|
||||
Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
|
||||
<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
|
||||
### Operation check
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation,
|
||||
connect the left hand side to the PC with a USB cable,
|
||||
and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRRS cable.
|
||||
Since there may be defects such as jacks,
|
||||
be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one
|
||||
before checking the operation.
|
||||
|
||||
* Since the switch is not attached,
|
||||
check the operation with tweezers as shown in the photo.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Top plate, key switch
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the key switch to the top plate as shown in the picture.
|
||||
|
||||
* Be careful of the direction of the key switch.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
We recommend using a 3-pin key switch.
|
||||
|
||||
* Even when using 5 pins, the plastic legs can be separated to make 3 pins.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Solder so that there is no gap between the switch and the PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro Protective Plate, Bottom Plate
|
||||
|
||||
Attach his ProMicro protective plate using an M2 9mm spacer.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Install the bottom plate using the M2 7.5mm spacer.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the rubber feet to the four corners.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Complete
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the keycap and you're done.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
208
corne-light/doc/v2/buildguide_low_edition_en.md
Normal file
208
corne-light/doc/v2/buildguide_low_edition_en.md
Normal file
@ -0,0 +1,208 @@
|
||||
# Build Guide
|
||||
|
||||
This is the build guide for Corne Light v2 Low edition.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Parts
|
||||
|
||||
### Required
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Count | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| PCB | 1 set | |
|
||||
| Top plate (acrylic) 2mm | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Bottom foam | 2 sheets | Special foam is cut out with a special mold |
|
||||
| OLED protective plate | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| ProMicro | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| TRRS jack | 2 | |
|
||||
| Tact switch | 2 | |
|
||||
| Diodes | 42 | Recommended SMD Parts |
|
||||
| Key switches | 42 | Kailh Choc v1 or v2 recommended |
|
||||
| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
|
||||
| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
|
||||
| Screw M2 4mm | 8 screws | |
|
||||
| TRRS (4 poles) cable | 1 | TRS (3 poles) cable is also acceptable |
|
||||
| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
|
||||
|
||||
### Optional
|
||||
|
||||
| Name | Count | Remarks |
|
||||
|:-|:-|:-|
|
||||
| OLED module | 2 sheets | |
|
||||
| Pin header for OLED module 4 series 1.5mm | 2 | |
|
||||
| 4 pin sockets for OLED module 2.5mm | 2 | |
|
||||
|
||||
## Advance preparation
|
||||
|
||||
If you build the firmware yourself,
|
||||
it takes time to prepare the environment,
|
||||
so it is recommended to start first. \
|
||||
See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
for more information.
|
||||
|
||||
## Verification
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB for Corne Light v2 is as follows.
|
||||
Make sure it is the same as your PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The PCB comes with a frame for manufacturing reasons.
|
||||
You can fold it by hand to remove it, but if it is difficult,
|
||||
make a cut in the joint \* with a cutter or similar,
|
||||
to make it easier to remove.
|
||||
In addition, the joint can be cleaned with a file.
|
||||
|
||||
\* *Joint part: There are a total of 8 parts,
|
||||
which are marked in red in the image below.*
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Assembly
|
||||
|
||||
### Diodes
|
||||
|
||||
Solder diodes for SMD components.
|
||||
Since SMD parts are very small,
|
||||
it is convenient to have tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
|
||||
|
||||
**The diode has a fixed mounting direction**,
|
||||
so solder it so that the "|" mark on the part faces the "|" on the diode mark "|◁".
|
||||
In addition, Corne's PCB has all the same diode mounting orientations.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
<details>
|
||||
<summary>TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts</summary>
|
||||
|
||||
The trick is to attach the SMD parts, but first, as a spare solder,
|
||||
put the solder on only one side of the pad.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
|
||||
At this time, it is recommended to use reverse-action tweezers,
|
||||
because you can hold the chip parts firmly without exerting force
|
||||
and you can concentrate on alignment and soldering.
|
||||
Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too much,
|
||||
the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form a clean pile of solder,
|
||||
but it can be repaired later,
|
||||
so at this point you should only care about attaching parts.
|
||||
It's okay.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
|
||||
when one foot is attached.
|
||||
If it floats, press the diode with tweezers or your fingers
|
||||
and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Then solder the other one.
|
||||
Be careful not to apply too much,
|
||||
as a small amount of solder is sufficient.
|
||||
If you apply too much, you can remove it with a blotting wire
|
||||
or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
|
||||
|
||||
If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
|
||||
additional soldering is performed, and if it is a mountain,
|
||||
apply flux from above and heat it to clean it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</details>
|
||||
|
||||
The diode is completed by soldering 42 pieces in total on the left and right.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### TRRS jack, reset switch, pin socket for OLED
|
||||
|
||||
Solder the TRRS jack, reset switch (tact switch),
|
||||
and OLED pin socket as shown in the picture below.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Since it is a part that easily slips off,
|
||||
you can solder it while holding the part by hand,
|
||||
or fix it with masking tape and then solder it.
|
||||
|
||||
### ProMicro
|
||||
|
||||
Solder ProMicro in the following orientation
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
If you use spring-loaded pin headers (e.g. Conthrough),
|
||||
you do not need to solder the back side.
|
||||
Please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](
|
||||
https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
|
||||
for details on how to use spring-loaded pin headers.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED module
|
||||
|
||||
Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
|
||||
and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
|
||||
At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
|
||||
so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Firmware
|
||||
|
||||
Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
|
||||
<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
|
||||
|
||||
### Operation check
|
||||
|
||||
We recommend that you check the operation when the ProMicro and OLED module are attached.
|
||||
If you do it at the very end, it will be difficult to isolate the problem.
|
||||
|
||||
To check the operation,
|
||||
connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB,
|
||||
and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRRS cable.
|
||||
Since there may be defects such as jacks,
|
||||
be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one
|
||||
before checking the operation.
|
||||
If it is done correctly so far,
|
||||
if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
|
||||
the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
|
||||
|
||||
### Top plate, switch
|
||||
|
||||
After attaching the key switch to the top plate, solder the key switch.
|
||||
If you attach all the key switches to the top plate first,
|
||||
it will be more difficult to attach the switches to the board,
|
||||
so it is easier to attach only the end key switches first.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### OLED protective plate
|
||||
|
||||
Attach the OLED protective plate with M2 9mm spacers and M2 screws.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Especially for the screws on the back side,
|
||||
tighten them firmly to attach the bottom foam after this.
|
||||
|
||||
### Bottom form
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, paste the bottom form.
|
||||
This foam has an adhesive surface on one side
|
||||
and a non-slip surface on the other side.
|
||||
Stick the adhesive side firmly to the PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
That's it.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Loading…
Reference in New Issue
Block a user