update firmware reference + more build guide things
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@ -11,32 +11,33 @@ https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/v2/buildguide_en.m
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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|:-|:-|:-|
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| PCB | 1 set | |
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| Top plate | 2 sheets | |
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| Top plate | 2 sheets | 1.5mm-3mm thick |
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| Bottom plate | 2 sheets | |
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| OLED cover | 2 sheets | |
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| ProMicro | 2 | |
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| ProMicro | 2 | Alternative: [Elite-C](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Elite-C) |
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| TRRS jack | 2 | |
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| Reset switch | 2 | |
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| Diodes | 42 | Only SMD parts are supported |
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| Diodes | 42 | SMD Only (SOD-123 Package) |
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| PCB sockets | 42 | Compatible with Kailh and Gateron |
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| Key switches | 42 | Only compatible with CherryMX |
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| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
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| Spacer M2 7.5mm | 10 pieces | |
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| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
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| Key switches | 42 | Only compatible with MX style |
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| Keycaps | 42 pieces | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
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| Spacer M2 7.5mm | 10 pieces | For Case assembly |
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| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | For OLED cover |
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| Screw M2 4mm | 28 screws | |
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| Rubber feet | 8 pieces | |
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| TRRS (4 poles) cable | 1 | TRS (3 poles) cable is also acceptable |
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| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
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| TRRS (4 poles) cable | 1 | TRS (3 poles) cable is also compatible |
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| Micro USB cable | 1 | Avoid charge-only cables |
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### Optional
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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|:-|:-|:-|
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| OLED module | 2 | |
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| Pin header for OLED module 4 series 1.5mm | 2 | |
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| 4 pin sockets for OLED module 2.5mm | 2 | |
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| SK6812MINI-E | 42 pieces | LEDs for Back light |
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| SK6812MINI-E | 42 | LEDs for Backlight |
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| WS2812B | 12 | LEDs for Undergrow |
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| [Microcontroller/OLED Sockets](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/315-43-112-41-003000/ED4764-12-ND/4455232) | 1 | Alternative: [2.54 1row femal sliv](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001122376295.html) option |
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| [Microcontroller Pins](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mill-max-manufacturing-corp/3320-0-00-15-00-00-03-0/4147392) | 48 | Alternative: Diode/Resistor legs |
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| [OLED Headers](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mill-max-manufacturing-corp/350-10-164-00-006000/357045) | 1 | Soldered to OLED module |
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## Firmware preparation
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@ -57,11 +58,11 @@ Make sure it is the same as your PCB.
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The PCB comes with a frame for manufacturing reasons.
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You can fold it by hand to remove it, but if it is difficult,
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make a cut in the joint \* with a cutter or similar,
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make a cut in the joint\* with a cutter or similar,
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to make it easier to remove.
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In addition, the joint can be cleaned with a file.
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\* *Joint part: There are a total of 8 parts,
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\**Joint part: There are a total of 8 parts,
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which are marked in red in the image below.*
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![confirm_remove_frame](assets/confirm_remove_frame.jpg)
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@ -70,50 +71,43 @@ which are marked in red in the image below.*
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### Diodes
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Solder diodes for SMD components.
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Since SMD parts are very small,
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it is convenient to have tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
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Since SMD parts are very small, fine-tip/reverse-action tweezers are recommended.
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**The diode has a fixed mounting direction**,
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so solder it so that the "|" mark on the part faces the "|" on the diode mark "|◁".
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In addition, Corne's PCB has all the same diode mounting orientations.
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**The diodes have a specific orientation**, so install with "|" marking on the diode
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facing the "|" on the PCB marking: "|◁"
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![build_diode](assets/build_diode.jpg)
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<details>
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<summary>TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts</summary>
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The trick is to attach the SMD parts, but first, as a spare solder,
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put the solder on only one side of the pad.
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Begin with applying solder to only one pad.
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![tips_building_smd_01](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/736191/54487435-79330280-48d9-11e9-9138-525d8ee68144.jpg)
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Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
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At this time,
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Next, place SMD component while heating solder. At this time,
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it is recommended to use [reverse-action tweezers](https://www.alimed.com/_resources/cache/images/product/70895A_850x480-pad.jpg),
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so that you can hold the SMD part firmly without applying force,
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and concentrate on alignment and soldering instead.
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Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too long,
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the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form an undesirable pile solder,
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but since it can be repaired later,
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the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form a poor solder joint,
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but it can be repaired later,
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so at this point you should only care about attaching parts.
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It's okay.
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![tips_building_smd_02](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/736191/54487436-79330280-48d9-11e9-856e-f3f5b9f58414.jpg)
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It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
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when one foot is attached.
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If it floats, press the diode with tweezers or your fingers
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and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
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It is okay if the SMD component is not flush with the PCB when viewed from the side.
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If it is floating, press the SMD component down with tweezers or your finger and reheat the solder.
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![tips_building_smd_03](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/736191/54487437-79330280-48d9-11e9-996d-a578e767c12c.jpg)
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Then solder the other pin.
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Then solder the other contacts.
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Be careful not to apply too much solder,
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as a small amount is sufficient.
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If you have applied too much,
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you can remove it with a suction pump, blotting wire
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or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
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you can remove it with a suction pump, solder wick,
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or by picking it up with a soldering iron.
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If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
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additional soldering is performed, and if it is a heap,
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@ -131,28 +125,24 @@ The diode is completed by soldering 42 pieces in total on the left and right.
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Solder the SK6812MINI-E and WS2812B.
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First, check the state after installation.
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![build_led_front_overview](assets/build_led_front_overview.jpg)
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All soldering is done from the back side, but the SK6812MINI-E is for Backlight
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(the front side is shining) and the WS2812B is for Undergrow (the back side is shining).
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![build_led_back_overview](assets/build_led_back_overview.jpg)
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#### WS2812B (Undergrow)
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First, solder the WS2812B.
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Solder with the corners of the recesses on the WS2812B
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and the corner marks on the PCB aligned as shown below.
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**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
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I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
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In addition, his PCB of Corne has the same mounting orientation of his WS2812B.
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Match recessed corner of the LED with marked corner on the PCB as shown below.
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Refer to **TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts** section above as similar soldering
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procedure is followed.
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![build_led_undergrow](assets/build_led_undergrow.jpg)
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He soldered a total of 12 pieces on the left and right, and he completed the WS2812B.
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WS2812B LED soldering is completed after 12 are installed on left and right.
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![build_led_undergrow_overview](assets/build_led_undergrow_overview.jpg)
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@ -160,21 +150,17 @@ He soldered a total of 12 pieces on the left and right, and he completed the WS2
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Then solder the SK6812MINI-E.
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Solder the SK6812MINI-E with the missing corners aligned with the PCB corners
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as shown below.
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**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
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I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
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It is harder to break than the SK6812MINI,
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but it may be damaged if it is directly exposed to the heat of a soldering iron.
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If the temperature is about 320°C
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with a soldering iron with a temperature control function,
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it seems that there is no problem even if four legs are soldered continuously.
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All Corne PCBs have the same mounting orientation for the SK6812MINI-E.
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Match the notched corner of the LED with the marked corner on the PCB as show below.
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Refer to **TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts** section above as similar soldering
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procedure is followed.
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These are more resilient than the SK6812MINI LEDs,
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but still may be damaged if directly exposed to the heat of a soldering iron.
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~320°C seems to be an ok temperature, evne if all four legs are soldered
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one after another.
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![build_led_backlight](assets/build_led_backlight.jpg)
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SK6812MINI-E is completed by soldering a total of 42 pieces on the left and right.
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SK6812MINI-E LED soldering is completed after 42 are installed on left and right.
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![build_led_back_overview](assets/build_led_back_overview.jpg)
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@ -185,17 +171,15 @@ and OLED pin socket as shown in the picture below.
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![build_trrs_reset_oled](assets/build_trrs_reset_oled.jpg)
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Since it is a part that easily slips off,
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you can solder it while holding the part by hand,
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or fix it with masking tape and then solder it.
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Since these parts may fall off when soldering, you can affix them with masking tape.
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### ProMicro
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Solder headers to PCB. Then solder ProMicro to headers, with components facing PCB
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Solder headers to PCB. Then solder ProMicro to headers, with components facing PCB as shown below.
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![build_promicro](assets/build_promicro.jpg)
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If you use spring-loaded pin headers (e.g. Conthrough),
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If you use [spring-loaded pin headers](https://shop.yushakobo.jp/collections/all-keyboard-parts/products/31),
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you do not need to solder the back side.
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Please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](
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https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
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@ -205,64 +189,55 @@ for details on how to use spring-loaded pin headers.
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### OLED module
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Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
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and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
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At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
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so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
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Insert the pin header into the socket first, then solder the OLED module
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to the pin header.
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Note: Solder one pin to OLED module, then reheat solder to confirm OLED module is level,
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then solder remaining pins.
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![build_oled](assets/build_oled.jpg)
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### Operation check
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We recommend that you check the operation when the ProMicro and OLED module are attached.
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If you do it at the very end, it will be difficult to isolate the problem.
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Now is a good time to test your keyboard to help isolate potential problems.
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To check the operation,
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connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB,
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and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRRS cable.
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Since there may be defects such as jacks,
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be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one
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before checking the operation.
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If it is done correctly so far,
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if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
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the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
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To check the operation, connect left and right sides with TRRS cable,
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then connect left side to the computer with USB cable.
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If it is done correctly so far, shorting a hotswap socket pad with tweezers will
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output out a keypress and it will be displayed on the OLED module.
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### PCB socket
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### Switch Sockets
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Solder the PCB socket according to the mark as shown below.
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All the PCB sockets are listed below,
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but I'm not really into it,
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so attach them one by one.
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**TIPS: As I introduced in Tips for Installing SMD Parts**,
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I think that you can attach it well with spare solder.
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Solder hotswap sockets according to mark on PCB as shown below.
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Refer to **TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts** section above as similar soldering
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procedure is followed.
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![build_socket](assets/build_socket.jpg)
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The PCB socket is completed by soldering a total of 42 left and right.
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Switch Socket soldering is completed after 42 are installed on left and right.
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![build_socket_overview](assets/build_socket_overview.jpg)
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### OLED protective plate
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### OLED protective cover
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Attach the OLED protective plate with M2 9mm spacers and M2 screws.
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Attach the OLED protective cover with M2 9mm spacers and M2 screws.
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![build_oled_plate_front](assets/build_oled_plate_front.jpg)
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![build_oled_plate_back](assets/build_oled_plate_back.jpg)
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### Plates, switches
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### Plates & Switches
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After attaching the key switch to the top plate,
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fit the key switch into the socket.
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Place a few key switches into the top plate, then line up and press into PCB socket.
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If you attach all the key switches to the top plate first,
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it will be more difficult to fit them in the socket,
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so it is easier to attach only the end key switches first.
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it will be more difficult to fit them in the PCB sockets all at once.
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So it is recommended to do a few to begin with.
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![build_top_plate_switches](assets/build_top_plate_switches.jpg)
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Install the M2 7.5mm spacer and M2 screws on the top plate.
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![build_screws_spacers_front](assets/build_screws_spacers_front.jpg)
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It is easy to screw the spacer after inserting it into the hole from the back side.
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It is easy to screw the spacer in after inserting it into the hole from the back side.
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![build_screws_spacers_back](assets/build_screws_spacers_back.jpg)
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![build_bottom_plate](assets/build_bottom_plate.jpg)
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Install the cushion rubber in the following positions.
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Install the rubber feet in the following positions.
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![build_cushion_rubbers](assets/build_cushion_rubbers.jpg)
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That's it.
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That's it!
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![build_finish](assets/build_finish.jpg)
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File diff suppressed because it is too large
Load Diff
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@ -22,7 +22,7 @@ Open QMK Toolbox, you will see a window like the one below.
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### Flash the firmware
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Download the firmware of VIA from the following link.\
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[crkbd_rev1_common_via.hex](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/foostan/crkbd/main/doc/assets/crkbd_rev1_via.hex)
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[crkbd_rev1_common_via.hex](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/foostan/qmk_firmware-hex/main/.build/crkbd_rev1_via.hex)
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Specify the file downloaded from "**Open**" in QMK Toolbox.
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And enable the check box for "**Auto-Flash**".
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@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ QMK Toolbox を開くと下記のようなウィンドウが表示されます
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### ファームウェアの書き込み
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VIA用のファームウェアを下記よりダウンロードします。\
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[crkbd_rev1_common_via.hex](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/foostan/crkbd/main/doc/assets/crkbd_rev1_via.hex)
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[crkbd_rev1_common_via.hex](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/foostan/qmk_firmware-hex/main/.build/crkbd_rev1_via.hex)
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QMK Toolbox の 「**Open**」 からダウンロードしたファイルを指定します。\
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また「**Auto-Flash**」のチェックボックスをチェックします。
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